Crowden brook, towers & Kinder Scout.

On our first day off for two weeks, we hoped for good weather, and we got exactly that! It was just perfect for a bit of a grunt, not too warm, and with a light breeze. We decided to do Mount Famine and South head, via Jacobs ladder and Kinders' southern edge. However, due to not paying attention, we accidentally went up Crowden clough. We soon realised our mistake, but hey - we were in paradise, so getting a bit 'lost' was no problem. We set off to climb up to Kinder, then I'd re-assess the walk route and time available.

Highfield farm.

With it being the season, there were LOADS of new lambs about. This pair were lazing in the sun on the path. It was all they could do to stand up and move as we approached them.

You can click on any of the pictures for a larger version, or a slide show.

Wisps of cloud were clearing fast to reveal a vivid blue sky as we headed upwards.

The tantalizing view ahead drew us - it's always exciting to see the way ahead like this.

A wave from Sue as she crosses Crowden brook.

The last stile before the wild country begins.

This bizarre sight greeted us on the way up - a bunch of balloons trapped under a rock in the brook? Click on the picture to see them.

Crowden towers.

The path follows the brook to the top, but we decided to test our fitness and head straight up the severe climb directly to them.

Sue presses on up

We hit the top, and turned left, passing Crowden tower rocks, and the woolpacks rocks.

This really is weird and lunar up here. The wind and weather has shaped the rocks over the millenia, and I never tire of looking at the strange shapes.

This one really looks like a little dog!

Others like teeth.

Easter island?

A fallen rock forms a bridge.

We sat on the edge, near Noe stool rocks on our way to Swines back, and gave the route some thought.

The mount Famine thing was dead in the water now. We had added a tidy chunk onto our day, so I took the decision to cross the wild moor of Brown Knoll, making for the base of South head (where we would have come down, had we done the original route).

The walk across Brown Knoll was glorious, serenaded by our first skylarks, and lots of Curlew too.

Ahead, we saw the flanks of South head.

Instead of going up it, our path went left across the moor, heading south east towards quiet tracks.

Sue puts south head behind her as we tramped the tracks. We didn't see one other person here on this fabulous day.

Chapel-en-le-Frith to our right.

A lovely old, run down barn.

Although late evening, around six o'clock, the sun was probably at its strongest now, and we were feeling it. The hard shadows and great light made for perfect views and pictures. The stone walls like a black and white skeleton across the green fields.

We changed course at the road, and headed along another track, this time north east, crossed the brow of brown knoll, and saw this stunning view of Kinder ahead. Curlews still calling, we crested the last climb of the day.

It's just wow!, Isn't it?

We dropped back down to Barber Booth car park, arriving at the car at seven o'clock, with the sun still warm on our backs.

We both really needed this day, and it felt SO therapeutic to have had it.

Ten and a half miles, and over 2,200 feet of ascent made us tired but very happy.

A video of the final mile and descent on the track back down to Barber Booth.

A panorama

Eyam dream.

Why that title ‘Eyam dream’? Well, it’s to demonstrate how to properly pronounce the name of the plague village. Some say ee-yum, some say eeee-yamm, but the residents pronounce it to rhyme with ‘dream;, so there you are.

 

 

Of course, being a walker and living in Bakewell for the past seven years, I’ve been to Eyam many, many times before. I thought I knew the story but after reading ‘Year of wonders’ by Geraldine Brooks (ISBN: 9781841154589), my interest was really fired up. It wasn’t a book I thought would be for me, but after Sue read it on holiday, she urged me to ‘give it a go’, and I’m really glad I did. Even if you’re not interested in the Eyam thing, it’s still a very good book.

 

Anyway, in a nutshell, Eyam is called the plague village because, in 1665 the plague was brought to Eyam from London in a roll of damp cloth by a tailor. The result was 260 people died, more than double the mortality rate in the capital. These people, through the leadership of a relatively young man called William Mompesson, cut themselves off from the outside world to suffer their fate without infecting the whole area around them (Bakewell being a very busy nearby market town).

 

This is the poignant picture on ‘Year of wonders’, depicting Elizabeth Hancock, who lost her husband and SIX children in the space of eight days!

As I said, we had visited Eyam many times, but this time we were determined to see all the high points mentioned in the book.

For all our visits, we had never visited Cucklet delph and the Cucklet ‘church’.

Through the gate, and back in time........

At the time we went, the wild garlic was in flower, and its heavy aroma filled the air in the delph.

 

At the top of the climb up the delph, we saw the sign to the ‘church’ where, after deciding the closeness of the village church was too dangerous, Mompesson took to preaching to his flock there, who were able to stand a ‘safe’ distance apart from each other to listen.

The sense of history and tragedy you get when you stand here in Mompesson’s footsteps is eerie.

To think, over 250 years ago, this one man was able to convince his flock to be so altruistic as to stay put while the plague raged among them.

His voice would ring through these rocks.

A memorial service is held here every year to remember the victims of the plague.

After exploring the ‘church’, we made our way to the village to see the real thing.

On the village green, the stocks still survive, albeit unused.

The beautiful stone troughs near the Eyam museum.

Again, passed many times, but never visited by us, the museum was next on the tick list.

The rat carried the plague fleas, and this is the wind vane on top of the museum alluding to that.

It really brings it home how very tragic this was when you see the names in list form – so LONG!

The Wilson family were particularly badly affected.

Not sure if I’d want to live here with this reputation and name hanging over the place.

Walking towards the church, we passed the ‘revolving, roasting jack’ that is part of Eyams tradition.

This is something I’ve never been to, but always wanted to.

The parish church at Eyam, dating back to circa 1150, an imposing structure.

The ‘plague window’, depicting scenes from the pestilence.

The actual record book with the hand written names of all the victims.

In the graveyard, this Saxon cross is famous as a good example.

I always love this Sun dial clock.

The grave of Mompesson's’ wife, Catherine.

A perfect view, looking back as we make our way to the Riley graves, where Elizabeth Hancock buried her family.

We noticed this ‘armoured car’ on the walk.

The rhododendrons were putting on a good show.

The wild flowers were too, not to be outdone.

People buried their dead where they could, the dignity of a church burial long since gone.

Across a stile, we could see the Riley graves (so called because that’s Riley house on the far side of the field, where Elizabeth Hancock lived).

Again, a solemn and eerie place.

Next we wanted to visit the Mompesson’s well, a short walk uphill and across town.

The views of the edges and Higger Tor were particularly good today.

Here it is, the well, where food and supplies were left.

The other drop-off place was the boundary stone above Stony Middleton.

Naturally, after the well, the boundary stone was next.

You can see the holes drilled in it for people to place their coins. The holes would be filled with vinegar to ‘disinfect’ them.

This system seemed to work, and kept the villagers supplied during their ordeal.

I’m sure THESE guys weren’t around during the time of the plague – llamas in a field.

A superb show of buttercups was also in evidence.

As it was ‘that time of the year’, we knew the orchids would be out in Cressbrook dale, so we capped off our day with a visit there.

We weren’t disappointed, it was, as usual here, a really good show.

You can read more on the Eyam museum website here; http://www.eyam-museum.org.uk/